A Seller Inspection can save buyers and sellers a lot of time, money and headaches.

More and more home sellers are opting to have their house inspected before a buyer comes along. Pre-Inspections (Move-In Certified inspections) are gaining great momentum in both soft and hot real estate markets. While professional home inspections are not a new concept, the idea to have an inspection done at listing is beginning to gain acceptance. After all, why wait until there is a real estate contract on the line to find out if there are any significant defects in the home? Seller disclosure requirements are also causing sellers to take proactive measures to protect themselves during the sales process. Today's seller wants to close their deal knowing they made a full disclosure of the condition of the home sold.

The Value of a Move-In Certified Inspection

•Marketing

Once your Move-In Certified Inspection is complete, a prominent Move-In Certified Logo can be posted on your on-line listing and a lawn sign can be placed on your lawn. Prospective buyers and real estate agents will understand a home that has had a prelisting inspection's unique benefit over other similar homes.

At your request, tent cards can be placed throughout the home so that buyers and agents touring the home are reminded that a recent professional inspection report is available for review. A Move-In Certified Inspection can give your home the edge! And buyers definitely appreciate knowing the condition of the major elements of the home upfront.

•Legal

The legal implications of seller disclosure requirements often put sellers in a difficult position. If a condition is found after a home has sold and was not disclosed, sellers may be asked to "prove" they were unaware of the problem - not an easy task.

Local laws in many areas now have formal requirements that sellers disclose the condition of the home being sold. Court rulings regarding disclosure are another but less predictable source of pressure on the seller. Your Hometown Inspection professional has the expertise to assist in documenting a home's "true" condition. Having your home pre-inspected by a Certified inspector provides you with the peace of mind that you have done all you could to disclose your home's condition. It also helps avoid post sale litigation once you've settled into your new destination.

•Financial

One of the most significant benefits of having your home inspected by your local Hometown Inspection office is the ability to enjoy an upper hand in negotiations.

Here's why: Without a pre-inspection, your home will be listed at what you consider to be a fair price. Interested buyers will then put in offers which are generally lower than the listing price. Most sellers expect to accept a price reasonably less than the listing price.

This is where a problem can arise. After the buyer has an accepted offer on the home, the buyer will hire a home inspector. Our research has shown that over 40% of all homes have at least one significant defect. When that defect is detected, most buyers will want the seller to fix defects found or try re-negotiate the price of the home. Experience shows that buyers generally try and negotiate two times the actual cost of repairs needed.

By having a professional home inspection report available to the buyer, sellers now have several valuable options:

•Make the necessary repairs. Studies show that homes in good condition sell faster and for a higher percentage of their original listing price because needed repairs have already been addressed.

•Price the house taking into account the home's condition. A higher price if the home has been well maintained and has newer/upgraded systems - or a price that has been adjusted down to reflect the less than perfect condition.

Buyers Benefit Too!

Buyers of a Move-In Certified Inspected home can arrange to have Hometown Inspections come back to the property at a reduced rate to review and update the original inspection report and answer all the buyer's questions.

• A hot water faucet that leaks one drop per second can add up to 165 gallons a month. That’s more water than the average person uses in two weeks!

• Every time you open the refrigerator door, up to 30%of the cold air can escape.

• U.S. energy consumption could be cut by 11% by 2020 through simple building efficiency measures such as more efficient lighting, water heating, and appliances.

• If every U.S. home replaced just one light bulb with an ENERGY STAR® efficient light bulb, the amount of energy saved could light more than 3 million homes for a year and prevent 9 billion pounds of greenhouse gas emissions per year, equivalent to the emissions of about 800,000 cars.

• More than 285,000,000 new computers will be sold this year.  The manufacturing of these machines will require 25 million tons of fossil fuels – more than the whole state of Iowa consumes in 1 year!

• Approximately 30% of energy used in buildings is used inefficiently or unnecessarily.

• In the average home, 75% of the electricity used to power home electronics is consumed while the products are turned off. The average desktop computer idles at 80 watts, while the average laptop idles at 20 watts. A Sony PlayStation 3 uses about 200 watts and nearly as much when idle. Idle power consumes more electricity than all the solar panels in America combined.

• The average home in the U.S. uses about 1,000 kilowatt-hours (kwh) of electricity per month – or the equivalent to: 79 gallons of gas, 18 trees or 29 barbecue grill propane cylinders.

• The most efficient appliance in your kitchen in your microwave, which uses just 1/3 of the wattage of most ovens.

• A compact fluorescent bulb (CFL) used 75% less energy than a traditional incandescent bulb.

• The television sets in the U.S. collectively draw the power equivalent of a Chernobyl-sized nuclear plant when they are turned OFF! They use this power for their instant-on capacity, so we don’t have to wait a minute or two for our screens to warm up.

• The U.S. houses 5% of the world’s population, but uses 23% of the world’s energy.

Homes being constructed today are more energy-efficient than those built even just a few years ago, primarily due to significant improvements in building products and techniques, as well as development of high-performance heating and cooling systems and other appliances. At InterNACHI, we believe that the benefits of foundation insulation are often overlooked. Heat loss from an uninsulated, conditioned basement may represent up to 50% of a home's total heat loss in a tightly sealed, well-insulated home. Foundation insulation is used primarily to reduce heating costs and has little or no benefit in lowering cooling costs. In addition to reducing heating costs, foundation insulation increases comfort, reduces the potential for condensation and corresponding growth of mold, and increases the livability of below-grade rooms.

 

Foundation Types

 

Foundations types are either full basement, slab-on-grade, or crawlspace. Deep frostlines and low water tables often make a full basement the primary foundation of choice. However, slab-on-grade with walkout basement construction is common, and home additions often have crawlspace foundations.

 

Full Basements

Basements can be insulated either on the interior or exterior. Interior insulation can use conventional 2x4 framing with batt or wet-spray insulation. Unless the vapor retarder covering on the batt insulation is fire-rated, it should be covered with drywall. Rigid foam is also used on basement interiors. Furring strips are used to hold the foam insulation in place. Extruded or expanded polystyrene or polyisocyanurate insulation boards can also be used. Fire codes require most foam insulation board to be covered with drywall.

 

Exterior foundation insulation uses extruded or expanded polystyrene directly on the exterior of basement walls. Insulation exposed above-grade must be covered to protect it from physical abuse and the damaging effects of the sun. Typical cover materials include roll-metal stock to match the siding, cementous board attached to the sill plate, or application of a stucco-like finish.

 

A third option is to use a foam-form foundation system. Polystyrene foundation forms are set on conventional footings, much like building a Lego® wall. Concrete is placed into the forms where it cures to form both the structural and thermal components of the basement wall. Exterior foam, either foam boards placed on the exterior of a conventional foundation, or in a foam-form wall system, may provide a concealed entry path for subterranean termites. Termites can tunnel through and behind many foam products. If exterior foam insulation is used, a continuous metal termite shield must be used between the top of the foundation and the sill plate to force termites out of the foam and into view. Even then, treatment with conventional termiticides to stop the infestation may be difficult. Foundation waterproofing, site and footing drainage, and termite treatments are similar for insulated and uninsulated basements. However, if exterior foam insulation is to be used, use waterproofing products compatible with the foam.

 

Crawlspaces

In many respects, crawlspace walls are just short basement walls. Exterior foam and foam-form insulation systems can be used. However, interior crawlspace wall insulation is usually either foam board or draped insulation. If foam insulation is used, it extends from the top of the foundation to the top of the footing. The cavity formed by the rim joist should be filled with fiberglass batts or a foam-in-place product. Most fire codes allow up to 2 inches of polystyrene exposed on the interior of a crawlspace before covering is required.

 

If crawlspaces are insulated with fiberglass or mineral wool batts, the batts are usually tacked to the sill plate and draped down and onto the floor. Four-foot-wide batts encased in a plastic cover work well when installed horizontally. Conventional 16- or 24-inch-wide batts leave voids between the batts and do not perform as well.

 

Some jurisdictions require a ventilated crawlspace to help control moisture. Vent requirements are significantly reduced if the floor of the crawlspace is covered with plastic sheeting with edges overlapped and taped to reduce crawlspace moisture. If required, install operable vents so they can be closed. Don’t forget to fill the rim joist space with fiberglass batt or foamed-in-place foam to complete the insulation treatment.

 

The floor over the crawlspace can also be insulated. This raises the thermal envelope from the crawlspace walls to the floor. While this technique offers many advantages, piping must be freeze-proofed, and heating and cooling ducts must also be insulated.

 

Slab-on-Grade

Heat loss is greatest at or near the exterior grade. To reduce heating costs and reduce the cold-floor syndrome common to slab-on-grade construction, insulation is critical. Exterior foam insulation, similar to exterior basement insulation, works well. Insulation should extend from the top of the slab to the top of the footing. Foam insulation inside the footing is also common. It is necessary to provide a thermal break to prevent thermal wicking from the slab to the outside. Installing a pressure-treated nailer or beveled slab edge provide the thermal break while still allowing floor-covering attachment. Climate, cost of fuel, efficiency of heating equipment, and type of foundation help determine the cost-effective level of insulation.

Savings from insulated foundations vary with fuel price, heating equipment performance, and climate. The cost of full-basement foundation insulation will vary, but builders have reported prices between $800 and $1,200. If the mortgage of a new home were increased by $1,200, the increase in home payment would be $106 annually for a 30-year, 8% loan. The combined heating and mortgage costs would be similar, and the home would be more comfortable and provide a healthier indoor environment.

 

Frequently Asked Questions

 
If a basement is unfinished, does it still need foundation insulation?

Yes, unless the floor above is insulated. Even if used only for storage and heating and cooling equipment, the basement is thermally connected to the rest of the house.

 

Is floor insulation above a basement or a crawlspace an alternative to foundation insulation?  

Yes, but keep in mind that pipes, ducts and HVAC equipment located in the basement would then need to be insulated to protect pipes from freezing. Sometimes these can be grouped in a small area with insulated walls while the floor above the rest of the basement is insulated.

 

Doesn’t placing insulation on the exterior improve energy performance?
If the basement incorporates passive solar design with a significant amount of south-facing windows, exterior insulation will be beneficial, provided the walls are exposed to solar gain. In a typical basement, the energy savings are negligible.

 

Should the interior of foundation walls have vapor barriers?
If interior insulation is used, yes. The concrete must be allowed to dry, but moist basement air typical of Midwest summers should not be allowed to reach the cool wall where it can condense. Batt insulation specifically designed for the interior of foundation walls has a perforated poly facing that prevents air from circulating through the batt, but allows water vapor from the wall to escape.

 

Will foundation insulation increase the risk of termite entry?
Foundation insulation does not increase the risk of termine entry. If termites are present in the soil and wood is used in the building, the risk of infestation exists. Exterior insulation may reduce the probability of early discovery, and inhibit treatment when discovered.

 

It is a good idea for the purposes of foundation inspection for termites to allow an open band or a small area where foundation insulation is omitted?
In some southern states with a high incidence of termite infestation, including Florida, North and South Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, eastern Texas, southern and central California, Georgia, Tennessee, and Hawaii, rigid foam insulation is not allowed to come in contact with the soil. In other areas, a 6-inch gap between the top of the foundation insulation and any wood framing member is required to permit visual inspection for termites. An InterNACHI inspector can be hired to perform required pest inspections.

 

Will exterior foundation insulation materials be chemically attacked by damp-proofing?
In can happen. Always follow the insulation manufacturer's instructions for damp-proofing.

 

What about waterproofing?
Codes often require waterproofing instead of damp-proofing if the wall is adjacent to habitable space. Manufacturers of some foam products offer specific recommendations for waterproofing their foam systems.

 

How long will exterior foundation insulation last?
Properly installed foundation insulation should last as long as insulation installed anywhere else in the building.

 

Should foam insulation above grade be protected?
Foam above grade must be protected from both sun and physical damage. Ultraviolet light degrades and destroys most foams. In addition, damage from lawnmowers, balls, and other incidental contact can degrade the appearance and performance of the foam. Common materials used to protect the foam above grade include two- or three-layer stucco finishes, brush-on elastomeric or cementitious finishes, vertical vinyl siding, cement board, aluminum coil stock, and fiberglass panels.

 

Will insulating the foundation increase the risk of radon problems?
Radon entry into a home occurs through cracks and other openings below grade. The use of foundation insulation should minimize thermal stresses on the foundation and help minimize cracking, thus reducing radon entry.

 

Should crawlspaces be ventilated?
The CABO One and Two Family Code requires 1 square foot of crawlspace ventilation for each 150 square feet of floor area. Operable vents 1/10th as large can be used if a vapor barrier is installed. Warm, damp summer air can condense on the cool earth, even when covered with a poly vapor diffusion-retarder, increasing the risk of crawlspace moisture problems. Installing a vapor barrier and closing the operable vents is preferred. If local code interpretation requires crawlspace ventilation, insulating the floor and incorporating a vapor barrier is preferred.

 

Do foam insulation boards installed on the interior require fire protection?
All foams require thermal protection equal to ½-inch of gypsum wall board when installed on the interior of a building, including a crawlspace. The only exception is Celotex ThermaxÒpolyisocyanurate, which may be installed without a thermal barrier where approved by the local building code official.

 

Are insulating concrete form (ICF) systems less expensive than an insulated, poured-in-place concrete wall?
ICFs can be competitive, but costs are project-specific. Foam used in these systems should address the same concerns outlined above for foam board.

 

That “perfect” four-bedroom, two-bath house you stumbled upon in a beautiful suburban neighborhood could hide some serious problems. The best way for homebuyers to find out about potential issues is with a good home inspection.

In fact, you’ll have to get a home inspection to meet mortgage lenders’ requirements before you buy. But not all licensed inspectors will thoroughly inspect and report on your potential home’s defects.

So before you hire the first home inspector you find on Google or whoever your Realtor or lender suggests, do your homework. It’s acceptable to interview a home inspector before you decide to drop $300 or more on the inspection fee.

Here are the seven most important questions to ask before you schedule a home inspection:

1. Are you a member of a professional inspection organization?

Reputable home inspectors will be members of one of these organizations: the National Association of Home Inspectors, the American Society of Home Inspectors or the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors. Many states also have statewide associations, which are acceptable alternatives.

Each organization has certification and licensing procedures and requires members to follow procedural and ethical standards when conducting home inspections. Membership to one of these organizations doesn’t guarantee a home inspector is an expert, but you should probably rule out any inspectors who aren’t members of a respected professional organization.

2. What’s your background?

The best home inspectors are typically those who have experience in the building industry. You want to work with an inspector who knows what’s inside the walls of your home and understands the basics of local building codes and requirements. (Note: A home inspector will not be able to tell you if every single plumbing, electrical and/or structural aspect of your potential home is up to the latest codes. For this, you’ll need a more specialized inspection by a licensed plumber, electrician or contractor.)

Background is especially important if you’re planning to purchase an older home, as inspectors may need to look for problems in older homes that are uncommon in newer properties. So if you’re buying an older home – or a fixer-upper – find an inspector with a background in inspecting similar homes.

3. How much experience do you have?

It’s OK to work with a rookie home inspector who has a background in construction or home repair. But be sure you hire someone who has, at the very least, undergone extensive training – or who will have the assistance of a more experienced inspector during the inspection.

4. How long will the inspection take?

On average, a home inspection should take two to three hours to perform. If you’re dealing with a large home, a fixer-upper or an older home, the inspection should take even longer. Don’t hire someone who promises to be in and out within an hour or two, as this is too short a time to thoroughly inspect a home.

5. What will you inspect?

Keep in mind that it’s not a home inspector’s job to inspect things that can’t be seen. The inspection won’t reveal any wiring problems hidden behind drywall or any mold problems under the shower tiles.

With that said, an inspector should evaluate every possible visible place in your home, including the roof, basement and attic. And the home inspector should be in physical shape to access these places, even if a ladder or flashlight is required.

An inspector should also look at things such as the water heater, furnace and electrical box. Again, the inspector may be unable to tell you if your home’s systems are up to local codes. But the professional should have enough knowledge to inform you if the systems are safe or in need of major repairs.

6. Can I attend the inspection?

A refusal to this simple request is a red flag. A home inspection is a fabulous opportunity to learn about your home and talk about anypossible repairs that may be needed. A good inspector will take you along on the inspection, if you wish. A great inspector will talk you through everything he sees.

7. What kind of inspection report do you offer?

Most inspectors will provide a report within 24 hours. It’s important to be sure the inspector’s reporting style will meet the requirements of your lender as well as your own personal preferences. Ask to see samples of their previous home inspections if you aren’t sure.

Of course, you’ll also want to ask about the inspector’s fees and schedule. But before you get to those, find the right inspector by asking these seven questions.

http://money.usnews.com/money/blogs/my-money/2014/04/27/7-questions-to-ask-when-choosing-a-home-inspector

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As we show you in this video, an inspector checks the safety of your potential new home. Home Inspectors focus especially on the structure, construction and mechanical systems of the house and will make you aware of only repairs that are needed. The Inspector does not evaluate whether or not you're getting good value for your money. Generally, an inspector checks (and gives estimates for repairs on): the electrical system, plumbing and waste disposal, the water heater, insulation and Ventilation the heating and AC system, water source and quality the potential presence of pests the foundation, doors, windows, ceilings, walls, floors, and roof. Be sure to hire a home inspector that is qualified and experienced. It's a good idea to have an inspection before you sign a written offer since once the deal is closed you've bought the house as-is.

Buying a home?  It's probably the most expensive purchase you'll ever make.  This is no time to shop for a cheap inspection.  The cost of a home inspection is very small relative to the value of the home being inspected.  The additional cost of hiring an InterNACHI-Certified Professional Inspector® is almost insignificant.   You have recently been crunching the numbers, negotiating offers, adding up closing costs, shopping for mortgages, and trying to get the best deals.  Don't stop now.  Don't let your real estate agent, a "patty-cake" inspector, or anyone else talk you into skimping here.  InterNACHI-certified inspectors  perform the best inspections by far.  InterNACHI-certified inspectors earn their fees many times over.  They do more, they deserve more, and -- yes -- they generally charge a little more. Do yourself a favor... and pay a little more for the quality inspection you deserve.

The licensing of home inspectors only sets a minimum standard.  Much like being up to code, any less would be illegal.  Imaginary people, children, psychics (who claim to "sense" if a house is OK) and even pets can theoretically be home inspectors.  InterNACHI, the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors, front-ends its membership requirements.

InterNACHI inspectors:

• have to pass InterNACHI's Online Inspector Examination, and re-take and pass it every three years (it's free and open to everyone, and free to re-take);
• have to complete InterNACHI's online Code of Ethics Course (free to take after joining, and self-paced);
• have to take InterNACHI's online Standards of Practice Course (free to take after joining, and self-paced);
• must submit a signed Membership Affidavit;
• substantially adhere to InterNACHI's Standards of Practice;
• abide by InterNACHI's Code of Ethics;
• have to submit four mock inspection reports to InterNACHI's Report Review Committee (for free) before performing their first paid home inspection for a client if the candidate has never performed a fee-paid home inspection previously;
• within the first year of membership, have to successfully pass the following free online, accredited, and self-paced courses and exams:
  • InterNACHI’s "Safe Practices for the Home Inspector" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "25 Standards Every Inspector Should Know" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "Residential Plumbing Overview for Inspectors" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Perform Residential Electrical Inspections" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Perform Roof Inspections" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Inspect HVAC Systems" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "Structural Issues for Home Inspectors" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Perform Exterior Inspections" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Inspect the Attic, Insulation, Ventilation and Interior" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Perform Deck Inspections" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Inspect for Moisture Intrusion" course, and
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Inspect Fireplaces, Stoves, and Chimneys" course.
• have to pursue inspection-related training by taking 24 hours of additional accredited Continuing Education each year;
• have to maintain their Online Continuing Education Log (free), per InterNACHI's rigorous Continuing Education policy;
• have access to InterNACHI's Message Board for exchanging information and tips with colleagues and experts;
• have access to InterNACHI's "What's New" section so that they can keep up with the latest news and events in the inspection industry;
• have access to InterNACHI's time-tested Inspection Agreement, which keeps them (and you) away from lawsuits;
• have access to InterNACHI's Report Review/Mentoring Service;
• have to carry E&O Insurance (if their state requires it);
• have access to a real estate agent Hold-Harmless Clause;
• and have access to many other benefits, training, marketing tools and information to help themselves, as well as consumers and real estate professionals, provided for free by the world's largest inspector association.

So, the next time you need a home inspector (or need to refer your clients to one), make sure that inspector is a member of InterNACHI.

WHAT DOES THIS MEAN FOR ME?

• A professional energy audit gives you a thorough picture of where your home is losing energy and what you can do to save money.
• You can save 5%-30% on your energy bill by making upgrades following a home energy assessment.
• You may be eligible for state, local, or utility incentives to assist with your home energy audit. Visit the Database of State Incentives for Renewables and Efficiency to find out.

HOW DOES IT WORK?

An energy auditor will walk through your home, review your bills, and conduct a blower door test or thermographic scan.Some utilities offer free or discounted home energy audits. Contact yours to find out if this incentive is available.

Professional energy assessments generally go into great detail to assess your home's energy use. The energy auditor will do a room-by-room examination of the residence, as well as a thorough examination of past utility bills. Many professional energy assessments will include a blower door test. Most will also include a thermographic scan. There's also another type of test -- the PFT air infiltration measurement technique -- but it is rarely offered. Check out the Energy Saver 101 graphic to get an idea of what energy auditors look for and the special tools they use to determine where a home is wasting energy. 

PREPARING FOR AN ENERGY ASSESSMENT

Before the energy auditor visits your house, make a list of any existing problems such as condensation and uncomfortable or drafty rooms. Have copies or a summary of the home's yearly energy bills. (Your utility can get these for you.) Auditors use this information to establish what to look for during the audit. The auditor first examines the outside of the home to determine the size of the house and its features (i.e., wall area, number and size of windows). The auditor then will analyze the residents' behavior: 

• Is anyone home during working hours?
• What is the average thermostat setting for summer and winter?
• How many people live here?
• Is every room in use?

Your answers may help uncover some simple ways to reduce your household's energy consumption. Walk through your home with the auditors as they work, and ask questions. They may use equipment to detect sources of energy loss, such as blower doors, infrared cameras, furnace efficiency meters, and surface thermometers.

FINDING AND SELECTING AN ENERGY AUDITOR

There are several places where you can locate professional energy assessment or auditing services.

• Your state or local government energy or weatherization office may help you identify a local company or organization that performs audits.
• Your electric or gas utility may conduct residential energy assessments or recommend local auditors.
• Your telephone directory under headings beginning with the word "Energy" may list companies that perform residential energy assessments.
• The Residential Energy Services Network provides a directory of certified energy raters and auditors near you.

Before contracting with an energy auditing company, you should take the following steps:

•Get several references, and contact them all. Ask if they were satisfied with the work.

•Call the Better Business Bureau and ask about any complaints against the company.

•Make sure the energy auditor uses a calibrated blower door.

•Make sure they do thermographic inspections or contract another company to conduct one.