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15 Tools Every Homeowner Should Own

2/2/2015

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The following items are essential tools, but this list is by no means exhaustive. Feel free to ask an InterNACHI inspector during your next inspection about other tools that you might find useful. 

 1.  Plunger
A clogged sink or toilet is one of the most inconvenient household problems that you will face. With a plunger on hand, however, you can usually remedy these plumbing issues relatively quickly. It is best to have two plungers -- one for the sink and one for the toilet.
 

2.  Combination Wrench Set
One end of a combination wrench set is open and the other end is a closed loop. Nuts and bolts are manufactured in standard and metric sizes, and because both varieties are widely used, you’ll need both sets of wrenches. For the most control and leverage, always pull the wrench toward you, instead of pushing on it. Also, avoid over-tightening.

3.  Slip-Joint Pliers
Use slip-joint pliers to grab hold of a nail, a nut, a bolt, and much more. These types of pliers are versatile because of the jaws, which feature both flat and curved areas for gripping many types of objects. There is also a built-in slip-joint, which allows the user to quickly adjust the jaw size to suit most tasks.

4.  Adjustable Wrench

Adjustable wrenches are somewhat awkward to use and can damage a bolt or nut if they are not handled properly. However, adjustable wrenches are ideal for situations where you need two wrenches of the same size. Screw the jaws all the way closed to avoid damaging the bolt or nut.


5.  Caulking Gun
Caulking is the process of sealing up cracks and gaps in various structures and certain types of piping. Caulking can provide noise mitigation and thermal insulation, and control water penetration. Caulk should be applied only to areas that are clean and dry. 

6.  Flashlight
None of the tools in this list is of any use if you cannot visually inspect the situation. The problem, and solution, are apparent only with a good flashlight. A traditional two-battery flashlight is usually sufficient, as larger flashlights may be too unwieldy. 

7.  Tape Measure
Measuring house projects requires a tape measure -- not a ruler or a yardstick. Tape measures come in many lengths, although 25 feet is best.  Measure everything at least twice to ensure accuracy. 

 8.  Hacksaw
A hacksaw is useful for cutting metal objects, such as pipes, bolts and brackets. Hacksaws look thin and flimsy, but they’ll easily cut through even the hardest of metals. Blades are replaceable, so focus your purchase on a quality hacksaw frame.
 
9. Torpedo Level
Only a level can be used to determine if something, such as a shelf, appliance or picture, is correctly oriented. The torpedo-style level is unique because it not only shows when an object is perfectly horizontal or vertical, but it also has a gauge that shows when an object is at a 45-degree angle. The bubble in the viewfinder must be exactly in the middle -- not merely close.

10.  Safety Glasses / Goggles
For all tasks involving a hammer or a power tool, you should always wear safety glasses or goggles. They should also be worn while you mix chemicals.

11.  Claw Hammer
A good hammer is one of the most important tools you can own.  Use it to drive and remove nails, to pry wood loose from the house, and in combination with other tools. They come in a variety of sizes, although a 16-ounce hammer is the best all-purpose choice.

12.  Screwdriver Set
It is best to have four screwdrivers: a small and large version of both a flathead and a Phillips-head screwdriver. Electrical screwdrivers are sometimes convenient, but they're no substitute.  Manual screwdrivers can reach into more places and they are less likely to damage the screw. 

13.  Wire Cutters
Wire cutters are pliers designed to cut wires and small nails. The side-cutting style (unlike the stronger end-cutting style) is handy, but not strong enough to cut small nails.

14.  Respirator / Safety Mask
While paints and other coatings are now manufactured to be less toxic (and lead-free) than in previous decades, most still contain dangerous chemicals, which is why you should wear a mask to avoid accidentally inhaling. A mask should also be worn when working in dusty and dirty environments. Disposable masks usually come in packs of 10 and should be thrown away after use. Full and half-face respirators can be used to prevent the inhalation of very fine particles that ordinary facemasks will not stop. 

15.  Duct Tape
This tape is extremely strong and adaptable. Originally, it was widely used to make temporary repairs to many types of military equipment. Today, it’s one of the key items specified for home emergency kits because it is water-resistant and extremely sticky.
  
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Faster Home Sales with Pre-listing Inspections

1/19/2015

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A Seller Inspection can save buyers and sellers a lot of time, money and headaches.

More and more home sellers are opting to have their house inspected before a buyer comes along. Pre-Inspections (Move-In Certified inspections) are gaining great momentum in both soft and hot real estate markets. While professional home inspections are not a new concept, the idea to have an inspection done at listing is beginning to gain acceptance. After all, why wait until there is a real estate contract on the line to find out if there are any significant defects in the home? Seller disclosure requirements are also causing sellers to take proactive measures to protect themselves during the sales process. Today's seller wants to close their deal knowing they made a full disclosure of the condition of the home sold.

The Value of a Move-In Certified Inspection

•Marketing

Once your Move-In Certified Inspection is complete, a prominent Move-In Certified Logo can be posted on your on-line listing and a lawn sign can be placed on your lawn. Prospective buyers and real estate agents will understand a home that has had a prelisting inspection's unique benefit over other similar homes.

At your request, tent cards can be placed throughout the home so that buyers and agents touring the home are reminded that a recent professional inspection report is available for review. A Move-In Certified Inspection can give your home the edge! And buyers definitely appreciate knowing the condition of the major elements of the home upfront.

•Legal

The legal implications of seller disclosure requirements often put sellers in a difficult position. If a condition is found after a home has sold and was not disclosed, sellers may be asked to "prove" they were unaware of the problem - not an easy task.

Local laws in many areas now have formal requirements that sellers disclose the condition of the home being sold. Court rulings regarding disclosure are another but less predictable source of pressure on the seller. Your Hometown Inspection professional has the expertise to assist in documenting a home's "true" condition. Having your home pre-inspected by a Certified inspector provides you with the peace of mind that you have done all you could to disclose your home's condition. It also helps avoid post sale litigation once you've settled into your new destination.

•Financial

One of the most significant benefits of having your home inspected by your local Hometown Inspection office is the ability to enjoy an upper hand in negotiations.

Here's why: Without a pre-inspection, your home will be listed at what you consider to be a fair price. Interested buyers will then put in offers which are generally lower than the listing price. Most sellers expect to accept a price reasonably less than the listing price.

This is where a problem can arise. After the buyer has an accepted offer on the home, the buyer will hire a home inspector. Our research has shown that over 40% of all homes have at least one significant defect. When that defect is detected, most buyers will want the seller to fix defects found or try re-negotiate the price of the home. Experience shows that buyers generally try and negotiate two times the actual cost of repairs needed.

By having a professional home inspection report available to the buyer, sellers now have several valuable options:

•Make the necessary repairs. Studies show that homes in good condition sell faster and for a higher percentage of their original listing price because needed repairs have already been addressed.

•Price the house taking into account the home's condition. A higher price if the home has been well maintained and has newer/upgraded systems - or a price that has been adjusted down to reflect the less than perfect condition.

Buyers Benefit Too!

Buyers of a Move-In Certified Inspected home can arrange to have Hometown Inspections come back to the property at a reduced rate to review and update the original inspection report and answer all the buyer's questions.

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12 Interesting Energy Saving Facts You Need To Know

1/18/2015

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• A hot water faucet that leaks one drop per second can add up to 165 gallons a month. That’s more water than the average person uses in two weeks!

• Every time you open the refrigerator door, up to 30%of the cold air can escape.

• U.S. energy consumption could be cut by 11% by 2020 through simple building efficiency measures such as more efficient lighting, water heating, and appliances.

• If every U.S. home replaced just one light bulb with an ENERGY STAR® efficient light bulb, the amount of energy saved could light more than 3 million homes for a year and prevent 9 billion pounds of greenhouse gas emissions per year, equivalent to the emissions of about 800,000 cars.

• More than 285,000,000 new computers will be sold this year.  The manufacturing of these machines will require 25 million tons of fossil fuels – more than the whole state of Iowa consumes in 1 year!

• Approximately 30% of energy used in buildings is used inefficiently or unnecessarily.

• In the average home, 75% of the electricity used to power home electronics is consumed while the products are turned off. The average desktop computer idles at 80 watts, while the average laptop idles at 20 watts. A Sony PlayStation 3 uses about 200 watts and nearly as much when idle. Idle power consumes more electricity than all the solar panels in America combined.

• The average home in the U.S. uses about 1,000 kilowatt-hours (kwh) of electricity per month – or the equivalent to: 79 gallons of gas, 18 trees or 29 barbecue grill propane cylinders.

• The most efficient appliance in your kitchen in your microwave, which uses just 1/3 of the wattage of most ovens.

• A compact fluorescent bulb (CFL) used 75% less energy than a traditional incandescent bulb.

• The television sets in the U.S. collectively draw the power equivalent of a Chernobyl-sized nuclear plant when they are turned OFF! They use this power for their instant-on capacity, so we don’t have to wait a minute or two for our screens to warm up.

• The U.S. houses 5% of the world’s population, but uses 23% of the world’s energy.


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Residential foundation insulation

1/13/2015

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Homes being constructed today are more energy-efficient than those built even just a few years ago, primarily due to significant improvements in building products and techniques, as well as development of high-performance heating and cooling systems and other appliances. At InterNACHI, we believe that the benefits of foundation insulation are often overlooked. Heat loss from an uninsulated, conditioned basement may represent up to 50% of a home's total heat loss in a tightly sealed, well-insulated home. Foundation insulation is used primarily to reduce heating costs and has little or no benefit in lowering cooling costs. In addition to reducing heating costs, foundation insulation increases comfort, reduces the potential for condensation and corresponding growth of mold, and increases the livability of below-grade rooms.

 

Foundation Types

 

Foundations types are either full basement, slab-on-grade, or crawlspace. Deep frostlines and low water tables often make a full basement the primary foundation of choice. However, slab-on-grade with walkout basement construction is common, and home additions often have crawlspace foundations.

 

Full Basements

Basements can be insulated either on the interior or exterior. Interior insulation can use conventional 2x4 framing with batt or wet-spray insulation. Unless the vapor retarder covering on the batt insulation is fire-rated, it should be covered with drywall. Rigid foam is also used on basement interiors. Furring strips are used to hold the foam insulation in place. Extruded or expanded polystyrene or polyisocyanurate insulation boards can also be used. Fire codes require most foam insulation board to be covered with drywall.

 

Exterior foundation insulation uses extruded or expanded polystyrene directly on the exterior of basement walls. Insulation exposed above-grade must be covered to protect it from physical abuse and the damaging effects of the sun. Typical cover materials include roll-metal stock to match the siding, cementous board attached to the sill plate, or application of a stucco-like finish.

 

A third option is to use a foam-form foundation system. Polystyrene foundation forms are set on conventional footings, much like building a Lego® wall. Concrete is placed into the forms where it cures to form both the structural and thermal components of the basement wall. Exterior foam, either foam boards placed on the exterior of a conventional foundation, or in a foam-form wall system, may provide a concealed entry path for subterranean termites. Termites can tunnel through and behind many foam products. If exterior foam insulation is used, a continuous metal termite shield must be used between the top of the foundation and the sill plate to force termites out of the foam and into view. Even then, treatment with conventional termiticides to stop the infestation may be difficult. Foundation waterproofing, site and footing drainage, and termite treatments are similar for insulated and uninsulated basements. However, if exterior foam insulation is to be used, use waterproofing products compatible with the foam.

 

Crawlspaces


In many respects, crawlspace walls are just short basement walls. Exterior foam and foam-form insulation systems can be used. However, interior crawlspace wall insulation is usually either foam board or draped insulation. If foam insulation is used, it extends from the top of the foundation to the top of the footing. The cavity formed by the rim joist should be filled with fiberglass batts or a foam-in-place product. Most fire codes allow up to 2 inches of polystyrene exposed on the interior of a crawlspace before covering is required.

 

If crawlspaces are insulated with fiberglass or mineral wool batts, the batts are usually tacked to the sill plate and draped down and onto the floor. Four-foot-wide batts encased in a plastic cover work well when installed horizontally. Conventional 16- or 24-inch-wide batts leave voids between the batts and do not perform as well.

 

Some jurisdictions require a ventilated crawlspace to help control moisture. Vent requirements are significantly reduced if the floor of the crawlspace is covered with plastic sheeting with edges overlapped and taped to reduce crawlspace moisture. If required, install operable vents so they can be closed. Don’t forget to fill the rim joist space with fiberglass batt or foamed-in-place foam to complete the insulation treatment.

 

The floor over the crawlspace can also be insulated. This raises the thermal envelope from the crawlspace walls to the floor. While this technique offers many advantages, piping must be freeze-proofed, and heating and cooling ducts must also be insulated.

 

Slab-on-Grade


Heat loss is greatest at or near the exterior grade. To reduce heating costs and reduce the cold-floor syndrome common to slab-on-grade construction, insulation is critical. Exterior foam insulation, similar to exterior basement insulation, works well. Insulation should extend from the top of the slab to the top of the footing. Foam insulation inside the footing is also common. It is necessary to provide a thermal break to prevent thermal wicking from the slab to the outside. Installing a pressure-treated nailer or beveled slab edge provide the thermal break while still allowing floor-covering attachment. Climate, cost of fuel, efficiency of heating equipment, and type of foundation help determine the cost-effective level of insulation.

Savings from insulated foundations vary with fuel price, heating equipment performance, and climate. The cost of full-basement foundation insulation will vary, but builders have reported prices between $800 and $1,200. If the mortgage of a new home were increased by $1,200, the increase in home payment would be $106 annually for a 30-year, 8% loan. The combined heating and mortgage costs would be similar, and the home would be more comfortable and provide a healthier indoor environment.

 

Frequently Asked Questions

 
If a basement is unfinished, does it still need foundation insulation?

Yes, unless the floor above is insulated. Even if used only for storage and heating and cooling equipment, the basement is thermally connected to the rest of the house.

 

Is floor insulation above a basement or a crawlspace an alternative to foundation insulation?  

Yes, but keep in mind that pipes, ducts and HVAC equipment located in the basement would then need to be insulated to protect pipes from freezing. Sometimes these can be grouped in a small area with insulated walls while the floor above the rest of the basement is insulated.

 

Doesn’t placing insulation on the exterior improve energy performance?
If the basement incorporates passive solar design with a significant amount of south-facing windows, exterior insulation will be beneficial, provided the walls are exposed to solar gain. In a typical basement, the energy savings are negligible.

 

Should the interior of foundation walls have vapor barriers?
If interior insulation is used, yes. The concrete must be allowed to dry, but moist basement air typical of Midwest summers should not be allowed to reach the cool wall where it can condense. Batt insulation specifically designed for the interior of foundation walls has a perforated poly facing that prevents air from circulating through the batt, but allows water vapor from the wall to escape.

 

Will foundation insulation increase the risk of termite entry?
Foundation insulation does not increase the risk of termine entry. If termites are present in the soil and wood is used in the building, the risk of infestation exists. Exterior insulation may reduce the probability of early discovery, and inhibit treatment when discovered.

 

It is a good idea for the purposes of foundation inspection for termites to allow an open band or a small area where foundation insulation is omitted?
In some southern states with a high incidence of termite infestation, including Florida, North and South Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, eastern Texas, southern and central California, Georgia, Tennessee, and Hawaii, rigid foam insulation is not allowed to come in contact with the soil. In other areas, a 6-inch gap between the top of the foundation insulation and any wood framing member is required to permit visual inspection for termites. An InterNACHI inspector can be hired to perform required pest inspections.

 

Will exterior foundation insulation materials be chemically attacked by damp-proofing?
In can happen. Always follow the insulation manufacturer's instructions for damp-proofing.

 

What about waterproofing?
Codes often require waterproofing instead of damp-proofing if the wall is adjacent to habitable space. Manufacturers of some foam products offer specific recommendations for waterproofing their foam systems.

 

How long will exterior foundation insulation last?
Properly installed foundation insulation should last as long as insulation installed anywhere else in the building.

 

Should foam insulation above grade be protected?
Foam above grade must be protected from both sun and physical damage. Ultraviolet light degrades and destroys most foams. In addition, damage from lawnmowers, balls, and other incidental contact can degrade the appearance and performance of the foam. Common materials used to protect the foam above grade include two- or three-layer stucco finishes, brush-on elastomeric or cementitious finishes, vertical vinyl siding, cement board, aluminum coil stock, and fiberglass panels.

 

Will insulating the foundation increase the risk of radon problems?
Radon entry into a home occurs through cracks and other openings below grade. The use of foundation insulation should minimize thermal stresses on the foundation and help minimize cracking, thus reducing radon entry.

 

Should crawlspaces be ventilated?
The CABO One and Two Family Code requires 1 square foot of crawlspace ventilation for each 150 square feet of floor area. Operable vents 1/10th as large can be used if a vapor barrier is installed. Warm, damp summer air can condense on the cool earth, even when covered with a poly vapor diffusion-retarder, increasing the risk of crawlspace moisture problems. Installing a vapor barrier and closing the operable vents is preferred. If local code interpretation requires crawlspace ventilation, insulating the floor and incorporating a vapor barrier is preferred.

 

Do foam insulation boards installed on the interior require fire protection?
All foams require thermal protection equal to ½-inch of gypsum wall board when installed on the interior of a building, including a crawlspace. The only exception is Celotex ThermaxÒpolyisocyanurate, which may be installed without a thermal barrier where approved by the local building code official.

 

Are insulating concrete form (ICF) systems less expensive than an insulated, poured-in-place concrete wall?
ICFs can be competitive, but costs are project-specific. Foam used in these systems should address the same concerns outlined above for foam board.

 

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Electrical Safety

1/5/2015

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Electricity is an essential part of our lives. However, it has the potential to cause great harm. Electrical systems will function almost indefinitely, if properly installed and not overloaded or physically abused. Electrical fires in our homes claim the lives of 485 Americans each year and injure 2,305 more. Some of these fires are caused by electrical system failures and appliance defects, but many more are caused by the misuse and poor maintenance of electrical appliances, incorrectly installed wiring, and overloaded circuits and extension cords.   Some safety tips to remember: 
  • Never use anything but the proper fuse to protect a circuit.
  • Find and correct overloaded circuits. 
  • Never place extension cords under rugs. 
  • Outlets near water should be GFCI-type outlets. 
  • Don't allow trees near power lines to be climbed. 
  • Keep ladders, kites, equipment and anything else away from overhead power lines. 

Electrical Panels
 Electricity enters the home through a control panel and a main switch where one can shut off all the power in an emergency. These panels are usually located in the basement. Control panels use either fuses or circuit breakers. Install the correct fuses for the panel. Never use a higher-numbered fuse or a metallic item, such as a penny. If fuses are used and there is a stoppage in power, look for the broken metal strip in the top of a blown fuse. Replace the fuse with a new one marked with the correct amperage. Reset circuit breakers from "off" to "on." Be sure to investigate why the fuse or circuit blew. Possible causes include frayed wires, overloaded outlets, or defective appliances. Never overload a circuit with high-wattage appliances. Check the wattage on appliance labels. If there is frayed insulation or a broken wire, a dangerous short circuit may result and cause a fire. If power stoppages continue or if a frayed or broken wire is found, contact an electrician. 

Outlets and Extension Cords
Make sure all electrical receptacles or outlets are three-hole, grounded outlets. If there is water in the area, there should be a GFCI or ground-fault circuit interrupter outlet. All outdoor outlets should be GFCIs. There should be ample electrical capacity to run equipment without tripping circuit breakers or blowing fuses. Minimize extension cord use. Never place them under rugs. Use extension cords sparingly and check them periodically. Use the proper electrical cord for the job, and put safety plugs in unused outlets.

Electrical Appliances

Appliances need to be treated with respect and care. They need room to breathe. Avoid enclosing them in a cabinet without proper openings, and do not store papers around them. Level appliances so they do not tip. Washers and dryers should be checked often. Their movement can put undue stress on electrical connections. If any appliance or device gives off a tingling shock, turn it off, unplug it, and have a qualified person correct the problem. Shocks can be fatal. Never insert metal objects into appliances without unplugging them. Check appliances periodically to spot worn or cracked insulation, loose terminals, corroded wires, defective parts and any other components that might not work correctly. Replace these appliances or have them repaired by a person qualified to do so. 

Electrical Heating Equipment
Portable electrical heating equipment may be used in the home as a supplement to the home heating system. Caution must be taken when using these heating supplements. Keep them away from combustibles, and make sure they cannot be tipped over. Keep electrical heating equipment in good working condition. Do not use them in bathrooms because of the risk of contact with water and electrocution. Many people use electric blankets in their homes. They will work well if they are kept in good condition. Look for cracks and breaks in the wiring, plugs and connectors. Look for charred spots on both sides. Many things can cause electric blankets to overheat. They include other bedding placed on top of them, pets sleeping on top of them, and putting things on top of the blanket when it is in use. Folding the blankets can also bend the coils and cause overheating. 

Children

Electricity is important to the workings of the home, but can be dangerous, especially to children. Electrical safety needs to be taught to children early on. Safety plugs should be inserted in unused outlets when toddlers are in the home. Make sure all outlets in the home have face plates. Teach children not to put things into electrical outlets and not to chew on electrical cords. Keep electrical wiring boxes locked. Do not allow children to come in contact with power lines outside. Never allow them to climb trees near power lines, utility poles or high tension towers. 

Electricity and Water
A body can act like a lightning rod and carry the current to the ground. People are good conductors of electricity, particularly when standing in water or on a damp floor. Never use any electrical appliance in the tub or shower. Never touch an electric cord or appliance with wet hands. Do not use electrical appliances in damp areas or while standing on damp floors. In areas where water is present, use outlets with GFCIs. Shocks can be fatal. 

Animal Hazards
Mice and other rodents can chew on electrical wires and damage them. If rodents are suspected or known to be in the home, be aware of the damage they may cause, and take measures to get rid of them. 

Outside Hazards
There are several electrical hazards outside the home. Be aware of overhead and underground power lines. People have been electrocuted when an object they are moving has come in contact with the overhead power lines. Keep ladders, antennae, kites and poles away from power lines leading to the house and other buildings. Do not plant trees, shrubs or bushes under power lines or near underground power lines. Never build a swimming pool or other structure under the power line leading to your house. Before digging, learn the location of underground power lines.
Do not climb power poles or transmission towers. Never let anyone shoot or throw stones at insulators. If you have an animal trapped in a tree or on the roof near electric lines, phone your utility company. Do not take a chance of electrocuting yourself. Be aware of weather conditions when installing and working with electrical appliances. Never use electrical power tools or appliances with rain overhead or water underfoot. Use only outdoor lights, fixtures and extension cords. Plug into outlets with a GFCI. Downed power lines are extremely dangerous. If you see a downed power line, call the electric company, and warn others to stay away. If a power line hits your car while you are in it, stay inside unless the car catches fire. If the car catches fire, jump clear without touching metal and the ground at the same time. 

MORE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS :
  • Routinely check your electrical appliances and wiring.
  • Hire an InterNACHI inspector. InterNACHI inspectors must pass rigorous safety training and are knowledgeable in the ways to reduce the likelihood of electrocution.
  • Frayed wires can cause fires. Replace all worn, old and damaged appliance cords immediately.
  • Use electrical extension cords wisely and don't overload them.
  • Keep electrical appliances away from wet floors and counters; pay special care to electrical appliances in the bathroom and kitchen.
  • Don't allow children to play with or around electrical appliances, such as space heaters, irons and hair dryers.
  • Keep clothes, curtains and other potentially combustible items at least 3 feet from all heaters.
  • If an appliance has a three-prong plug, use it only in a three-slot outlet. Never force it to fit into a two-slot outlet or extension cord.
  • Never overload extension cords or wall sockets. Immediately shut off, then professionally replace, light switches that are hot to the touch, as well as lights that flicker. Use safety closures to childproof electrical outlets.
  • Check your electrical tools regularly for signs of wear. If the cords are frayed or cracked, replace them. Replace any tool if it causes even small electrical shocks, overheats, shorts out or gives off smoke or sparks.
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7 Questions to Ask When Choosing a Home Inspector

10/18/2014

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That “perfect” four-bedroom, two-bath house you stumbled upon in a beautiful suburban neighborhood could hide some serious problems. The best way for homebuyers to find out about potential issues is with a good home inspection.

In fact, you’ll have to get a home inspection to meet mortgage lenders’ requirements before you buy. But not all licensed inspectors will thoroughly inspect and report on your potential home’s defects.

So before you hire the first home inspector you find on Google or whoever your Realtor or lender suggests, do your homework. It’s acceptable to interview a home inspector before you decide to drop $300 or more on the inspection fee.

Here are the seven most important questions to ask before you schedule a home inspection:

1. Are you a member of a professional inspection organization?

Reputable home inspectors will be members of one of these organizations: the National Association of Home Inspectors, the American Society of Home Inspectors or the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors. Many states also have statewide associations, which are acceptable alternatives.

Each organization has certification and licensing procedures and requires members to follow procedural and ethical standards when conducting home inspections. Membership to one of these organizations doesn’t guarantee a home inspector is an expert, but you should probably rule out any inspectors who aren’t members of a respected professional organization.

2. What’s your background?

The best home inspectors are typically those who have experience in the building industry. You want to work with an inspector who knows what’s inside the walls of your home and understands the basics of local building codes and requirements. (Note: A home inspector will not be able to tell you if every single plumbing, electrical and/or structural aspect of your potential home is up to the latest codes. For this, you’ll need a more specialized inspection by a licensed plumber, electrician or contractor.)

Background is especially important if you’re planning to purchase an older home, as inspectors may need to look for problems in older homes that are uncommon in newer properties. So if you’re buying an older home – or a fixer-upper – find an inspector with a background in inspecting similar homes.

3. How much experience do you have?

It’s OK to work with a rookie home inspector who has a background in construction or home repair. But be sure you hire someone who has, at the very least, undergone extensive training – or who will have the assistance of a more experienced inspector during the inspection.

4. How long will the inspection take?

On average, a home inspection should take two to three hours to perform. If you’re dealing with a large home, a fixer-upper or an older home, the inspection should take even longer. Don’t hire someone who promises to be in and out within an hour or two, as this is too short a time to thoroughly inspect a home.

5. What will you inspect?

Keep in mind that it’s not a home inspector’s job to inspect things that can’t be seen. The inspection won’t reveal any wiring problems hidden behind drywall or any mold problems under the shower tiles.

With that said, an inspector should evaluate every possible visible place in your home, including the roof, basement and attic. And the home inspector should be in physical shape to access these places, even if a ladder or flashlight is required.

An inspector should also look at things such as the water heater, furnace and electrical box. Again, the inspector may be unable to tell you if your home’s systems are up to local codes. But the professional should have enough knowledge to inform you if the systems are safe or in need of major repairs.

6. Can I attend the inspection?

A refusal to this simple request is a red flag. A home inspection is a fabulous opportunity to learn about your home and talk about anypossible repairs that may be needed. A good inspector will take you along on the inspection, if you wish. A great inspector will talk you through everything he sees.

7. What kind of inspection report do you offer?

Most inspectors will provide a report within 24 hours. It’s important to be sure the inspector’s reporting style will meet the requirements of your lender as well as your own personal preferences. Ask to see samples of their previous home inspections if you aren’t sure.

Of course, you’ll also want to ask about the inspector’s fees and schedule. But before you get to those, find the right inspector by asking these seven questions.

http://money.usnews.com/money/blogs/my-money/2014/04/27/7-questions-to-ask-when-choosing-a-home-inspector

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What Does A Home Inspector Do, And How Does An Inspection Figure In The Purchase Of A Home?

10/15/2014

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As we show you in this video, an inspector checks the safety of your potential new home. Home Inspectors focus especially on the structure, construction and mechanical systems of the house and will make you aware of only repairs that are needed. The Inspector does not evaluate whether or not you're getting good value for your money. Generally, an inspector checks (and gives estimates for repairs on): the electrical system, plumbing and waste disposal, the water heater, insulation and Ventilation the heating and AC system, water source and quality the potential presence of pests the foundation, doors, windows, ceilings, walls, floors, and roof. Be sure to hire a home inspector that is qualified and experienced. It's a good idea to have an inspection before you sign a written offer since once the deal is closed you've bought the house as-is.

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Choosing The Right Home Inspector

10/8/2014

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Buying a home?  It's probably the most expensive purchase you'll ever make.  This is no time to shop for a cheap inspection.  The cost of a home inspection is very small relative to the value of the home being inspected.  The additional cost of hiring an InterNACHI-Certified Professional Inspector® is almost insignificant.   You have recently been crunching the numbers, negotiating offers, adding up closing costs, shopping for mortgages, and trying to get the best deals.  Don't stop now.  Don't let your real estate agent, a "patty-cake" inspector, or anyone else talk you into skimping here.  InterNACHI-certified inspectors  perform the best inspections by far.  InterNACHI-certified inspectors earn their fees many times over.  They do more, they deserve more, and -- yes -- they generally charge a little more. Do yourself a favor... and pay a little more for the quality inspection you deserve.

The licensing of home inspectors only sets a minimum standard.  Much like being up to code, any less would be illegal.  Imaginary people, children, psychics (who claim to "sense" if a house is OK) and even pets can theoretically be home inspectors.  InterNACHI, the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors, front-ends its membership requirements.

InterNACHI inspectors:

  • have to pass InterNACHI's Online Inspector Examination, and re-take and pass it every three years (it's free and open to everyone, and free to re-take);
  • have to complete InterNACHI's online Code of Ethics Course (free to take after joining, and self-paced);
  • have to take InterNACHI's online Standards of Practice Course (free to take after joining, and self-paced);
  • must submit a signed Membership Affidavit;
  • substantially adhere to InterNACHI's Standards of Practice;
  • abide by InterNACHI's Code of Ethics;
  • have to submit four mock inspection reports to InterNACHI's Report Review Committee (for free) before performing their first paid home inspection for a client if the candidate has never performed a fee-paid home inspection previously;
  • within the first year of membership, have to successfully pass the following free online, accredited, and self-paced courses and exams:
    • InterNACHI’s "Safe Practices for the Home Inspector" course,
    • InterNACHI’s "25 Standards Every Inspector Should Know" course,
    • InterNACHI’s "Residential Plumbing Overview for Inspectors" course,
    • InterNACHI’s "How to Perform Residential Electrical Inspections" course,
    • InterNACHI’s "How to Perform Roof Inspections" course,
    • InterNACHI’s "How to Inspect HVAC Systems" course,
    • InterNACHI’s "Structural Issues for Home Inspectors" course,
    • InterNACHI’s "How to Perform Exterior Inspections" course,
    • InterNACHI’s "How to Inspect the Attic, Insulation, Ventilation and Interior" course,
    • InterNACHI’s "How to Perform Deck Inspections" course,
    • InterNACHI’s "How to Inspect for Moisture Intrusion" course, and
    • InterNACHI’s "How to Inspect Fireplaces, Stoves, and Chimneys" course.
  • have to pursue inspection-related training by taking 24 hours of additional accredited Continuing Education each year;
  • have to maintain their Online Continuing Education Log (free), per InterNACHI's rigorous Continuing Education policy;
  • have access to InterNACHI's Message Board for exchanging information and tips with colleagues and experts;
  • have access to InterNACHI's "What's New" section so that they can keep up with the latest news and events in the inspection industry;
  • have access to InterNACHI's time-tested Inspection Agreement, which keeps them (and you) away from lawsuits;
  • have access to InterNACHI's Report Review/Mentoring Service;
  • have to carry E&O Insurance (if their state requires it);
  • have access to a real estate agent Hold-Harmless Clause;
  • and have access to many other benefits, training, marketing tools and information to help themselves, as well as consumers and real estate professionals, provided for free by the world's largest inspector association.

So, the next time you need a home inspector (or need to refer your clients to one), make sure that inspector is a member of InterNACHI.

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Consumer's Guide to Infrared Thermography

10/8/2014

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October is national energy awareness month

10/7/2014

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Picture

WHAT DOES THIS MEAN FOR ME?

  • A professional energy audit gives you a thorough picture of where your home is losing energy and what you can do to save money.
  • You can save 5%-30% on your energy bill by making upgrades following a home energy assessment.
  • You may be eligible for state, local, or utility incentives to assist with your home energy audit. Visit the Database of State Incentives for Renewables and Efficiency to find out.

HOW DOES IT WORK?

An energy auditor will walk through your home, review your bills, and conduct a blower door test or thermographic scan.Some utilities offer free or discounted home energy audits. Contact yours to find out if this incentive is available.

Professional energy assessments generally go into great detail to assess your home's energy use. The energy auditor will do a room-by-room examination of the residence, as well as a thorough examination of past utility bills. Many professional energy assessments will include a blower door test. Most will also include a thermographic scan. There's also another type of test -- the PFT air infiltration measurement technique -- but it is rarely offered. Check out the Energy Saver 101 graphic to get an idea of what energy auditors look for and the special tools they use to determine where a home is wasting energy. 

PREPARING FOR AN ENERGY ASSESSMENT

Before the energy auditor visits your house, make a list of any existing problems such as condensation and uncomfortable or drafty rooms. Have copies or a summary of the home's yearly energy bills. (Your utility can get these for you.) Auditors use this information to establish what to look for during the audit. The auditor first examines the outside of the home to determine the size of the house and its features (i.e., wall area, number and size of windows). The auditor then will analyze the residents' behavior: 

  • Is anyone home during working hours?
  • What is the average thermostat setting for summer and winter?
  • How many people live here?
  • Is every room in use?

Your answers may help uncover some simple ways to reduce your household's energy consumption. Walk through your home with the auditors as they work, and ask questions. They may use equipment to detect sources of energy loss, such as blower doors, infrared cameras, furnace efficiency meters, and surface thermometers.

FINDING AND SELECTING AN ENERGY AUDITOR

There are several places where you can locate professional energy assessment or auditing services.

  • Your state or local government energy or weatherization office may help you identify a local company or organization that performs audits.
  • Your electric or gas utility may conduct residential energy assessments or recommend local auditors.
  • Your telephone directory under headings beginning with the word "Energy" may list companies that perform residential energy assessments.
  • The Residential Energy Services Network provides a directory of certified energy raters and auditors near you.

Before contracting with an energy auditing company, you should take the following steps:

•Get several references, and contact them all. Ask if they were satisfied with the work.

•Call the Better Business Bureau and ask about any complaints against the company.

•Make sure the energy auditor uses a calibrated blower door.

•Make sure they do thermographic inspections or contract another company to conduct one.

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